Friday 29 June 2007

Montserrat: Joining a monastery wouldn´t be so bad

JUNE 21ST - JULY 3RD
We headed for the mountains, an hour's train ride outside of Barcelona, with very little information to go on about what was there or what kind of climbing was available, just that it was good. We bought a map, which indicated that there was some sort of campsite, so we bought a ton of food and fuel and crossed our fingers that we would be able to find water and a flat piece of ground. What we found was beyond all expecations - a campsite with not just water but hot showers, a great view, and hosts that were climbers and gave us detailed information on routes and how to get there. And just 5 minutes away, a beautiful monastery with all the amenities all of its visitors would want - specifically, coffee every morning.


Our campsite
Chris making dinner with the monastery behind.





Our tent, as (almost) seen from the monastery.







Some form of spiritual site has apparently been in these mountians for a long time, with the monastery being built almost a thousand years ago. It was amazing to be hiking around and coming across old statues and buildings and such all throughout the mountains, and even on top of them. There were hordes of tourists there every day but every evening the place cleared out and it was pretty much just us and the monks.










Montserrat also has a long history of climbing, with the current climbers having been taught there by their fathers. In one ‘refugio’, a little old church way up in the mountains that now houses climbers, there was climbing gear left over from some of the original climbers. They used chunks of wood shoved in the cracks to protect their falls. Yikes.



The climbing was like the best gym ever! The rock was ‘conglomerate’, so was all these chunks of different kinds of rocks all cemented together and sticking out into enormous hand and footholds, so we were able to climb some pretty overhanging stuff and still have lots to hold onto. (Agata, you would love it here!)




Finally, the sad day arrived when Chris had to leave the next morning. Many folks from the community at the base of the mountains and several of the monks came out for a good-bye fiesta at the monastery (and to celebrate Dia de St. Joan, which just happened to coincide).
We learned the ‘Sardana’, a traditional Spanish circle dance, and watched four year-olds set off fireworks.
There was talk of leaving with Chris or staying only a few more days, then heading for France and then Italy to climb but we decided that we like it here in Montserrat, and want to leave yet, so we are going to stay for another week, then fly directly to Venice.

We started doing some longer routes, and finished off with the spire which we had our eye on the whole time, called Cavall Bernat.
We had to forego climbing it one day because some local climbers were setting up a 200m Tyrolean traverse between it and another nearby peak. The would hook themselves in on one peak and go whizzing most of the way to the other one, then haul themselves up the final bit of rope to the peak. Wa hoo

We learned that ‘Cavall’ means horse, which is fitting since Nelson rappelled down cowboy style.






Wednesday 20 June 2007

Hola Barcelona!

JUNE 16TH - 21ST
Nelson met Chris and I in Girona, near Barcelona, where we spent a wonderful evening wandering old cobblestone streets and happening upon rowdy music being made in secret courtyards under a full moon.

Then we found a campsite near Barcelona and had our first swim in the Mediterranean. The following days were spent exploring the city, on foot and by bike. It´s an architectural playground, from the fairytale world of Gaudi to the very modern Gherry sculptures and lots of cantilevers. Chris and I are both very happy to be here with Nelson as our architect-in-training tour guide.
The Barcelona skyline, with the Sagrada Familia on the right, under construction for more than a hundred years!






Inside the Sagrada Familia

At Gaudi´s Parc Guell


His mosaics are pretty crazy.


Some good vandalism.
Gaudi´s famous hotel, Batalló.



Barcelona has litter-fighting superheroes.












Today we head to Montserrat in the nearby mountains to climb! There is a monastery up there and it is supposed to be breathtaking.

Scotland: Pure Dead Brilliant

JUNE 11TH - 16TH
Had a wonderful visit with Steph, and got to see a bit of Edinburgh. Our first foray into the park in the middle of the city included a man in a kilt playing bagpipes, so my Toronto experience was just a little foreshadowing.
The view up Leith walk from John´s apartment. Steph and I rode up this with very loaded bikes, in rush hour, which felt like taking my life in my hands, especially when we hit a traffic circle. In Scotland, the lines on the sides of the road are yellow, the middle one is white, and cars can park facing either way on either side of the street so it felt to me like anyone´s guess which way the cars would go!!



My favourite name for a town.


We met up with Chris(tina) in Glasgow after a few days and took a ferry to the Isle of Arran and circumnavigated it by bike. It wasn´t very big, and is called ´Scotland in miniature´, so it seemed like a good way to see the country in three days.

Had one particularly Scottish day: Woke up beside a castle, ate Haggis and oatcakes for breakfast, toured a whiskey distillery and tasted the 10 year old single malt Scotch that won tons of awards this year, rode our bikes on the left side of the road, avoiding sheep, and endured crazy rain and wind. I thought I might miss the colder climates as I experience summer for a year, but Scotland definitely got that out of my system!

The local wildlife: a highland cow. We decided that he must go to the same hairdresser as Brock.
They´re not as big or ornery as they look.













I thought that learning languages would start when I got to Spain but, no, it began in Scotland. Thanks to John, I have come away with a few new words:

flat = apartment
biscuit = cookie (except, apparently, the big gooey ones that Steph´s mom sends are still cookies)
trousers = pants (turns out i was referring to my undies everytime I said ´pants´, and what was in them when I mentioned seeing a great fannypack)